FOOD DAY / FRIDAY / EATS

"HIGHLIGHTS" 

JIM DIVILIO may be the reigning king of Long Island theme (but not theme-park) restaurants. Six years ago, he did the Cal-Mex thing by opening the Baja Grill restaurants in East Northport and Smithtown (successful, until its sale to a corporate enterprise), and four years later, launched the Laguna Grille in Woodbury, which specializes in nuevo Latino cuisine. These days, he's trying to bring the backwoods of Tennessee to Long Island with the new Eldorado Southern BBQ and Grille.

This is the biggest of his whimsically decorated restaurants, a mess-hall-size space adorned with pigs, both neon and painted.

Young, caring and energetic servers start you off with a basket of warm tortilla chips accompanied by a peppy, roasted tomato salsa. That same salsa is paired with the super "Louisiana" calamari, tender squid in a light, puffy batter. and hush puppies, served with maple butter, You'll love the grilled chicken Chimichangas.

DiVilio turns out dandy quesadillas; the "steak and mushroom" version is fashioned of sliced skirt steak, fibrous and juicy, along with fried onion wisps, portobello mushrooms and Jack cheese. Pico de gallo, on the side, is lively, sparked with fresh cilantro. Do try the pulled pork sandwich, soft shredded meat bound with just the right amount of piquant barbecue sauce.

You'll encounter that same pulled pork on the "Texas Trio" platter, which also includes terrific barbequed chicken and some of the best beef brisket sampled on Long Island. Mashed potatoes are a fluffy comfort.

Another winning combination features smoky barbecued pork ribs and grilled shrimp.  Steak fajitas have sizzle and savor. "Bourbon BBQ chicken," a bourbon barbeque glazed grilled breast, is good, if not traditional Southern barbecue; knockout, smoky-sweet baked beans were on the side..

If it's early, take the kids. If not, relax over one of Eldorado's knockout margaritas. Then, go home and listen to some good bluegrass music.