''El Dorado'' conjures images of explorers seeking the mythical city of gold, but it wouldn't be inaccurate to consider the recently retired Cadillac model as you summon the appetite of a large sedan to put away a full meal at this BBQ joint. ''Big and boisterous'' describes both the roadhouse atmosphere and the portions. The menu is peppered with locations of origin that could be hard to verify (are the Kentucky Cheese Fries really served that way in, say, Lexington?), but spice the dishes with authenticity. Joining the usual smoked and grilled meats are below-the-border delights such as quesadillas, burritos and fajitas, along with jambalayas that are more French Quarter than Kentucky Fried. The desserts, which include a bourbon pecan pie, are as decadent as the entrees. A few seafood dishes will satisfy. If you don't have a reservation, belly up to the bar -- you'll feel like you're in a roadhouse, but fight the temptation to smash anyone over the head with a barstool. -- J. Gidman Zumpano